Posted: Apr 11 2007 at 11:42pm | IP Logged
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Wow what is the perpose of a forum, if not to discuss things pertaining to what ever the forum is about! No offence But nothing at all. I mean it has been 2 days now and 20 people have looked at it and no one has had anything to offer. not even a referal of some sort of an other post or link to another site. Well that is OK then I will answer my own question. Since no one wants to.
EXHUAST
Size- When dealing with forced induction engines ( that is super/turbo charged) such as the S/C Frontier. I do not believe back presure of any kind is needed due to the fact that airs is already being forced through it. Back preasure is only benificail to NA engins as they are engines designed to work with back presure. So In other words Bigger is better for the S/C Frontier to a point so as not to be cumbersome.
Intakes.
There are more of these things than you can count. However when chosing which one consider these factors.
One diameter of the tubbing- The inlet on stock 03 is about 3 inches in diameter(so is the MAFS) so anything bigger than that really won't do much and will have to be funneled in to the intake wich if not done correctly could cause disruptions in the air. Which brings me to my next point.
Smoothness- The smoother and less curvitur that an intake has the less places airs has to bounce off of, or be other wise directed in any direction other than in, which will also push again more incoming air.
Filter size- Cone filter is a must being that surface areas is greater than a panel filter. Again bigger is better becuase most ofter the filter is the most restrictive part on an intake system. Also pourusness, that is how well the filter beaths, you do not want to thin or pourus as it will defeat the purpose of haveing filter in the first place. K and N is a very well trust and always over priced brand that has been around for a while. I suggest buy the matterials and finding some sheet metal for a heat sheild. It is about 150$ cheaper and really does not take that much time. Here is what you will need.
2hours
Remove all of the Factory intake, (If desired) I did. Every thing up to the intake of the S/C/ Also reach into the wheel well and remove the resonator in there as well. This is a great place for ram air or cold air intake to be ran.
1 3"diameter 22degree bend 6-8 inches long
2-3" couplers
1-MASF attachment so as to make it mateable with a Cone filter
1 Cone filter
3 gromets for the 2 holes that you will drill into the 22degree to feed the vacum tubes and one 1/8 inch gromet to feed the other vacum tube close to the MAFS. you will need to dril a hole for this to.
SUPER CHARGER UPGRADE ( not replacement)
There are various sizes of decressed diameter pulleys for out frontiers. These smaller pulleys serve to incease the speed at wich the belt turns the impeller inside the supercharger there for increaseing the boost. From what I understand anything above a 2.4 diameter pulley (2.65 is stock) should not turn the S/C faster that the 1400 RPM that it is designed to take And anything smaller may cause Heat damage to your engine and supercharger. Also 2.3 2.35 2.4 2.5 and original 2.64 are available for sale.
Stock 2.64= 6-8PSI
2.3= 10-12PSI
2.35= 10-11PSI (25-28HP)
2.4= 9-11 PSI
2.5= 7-9PSI
Both Air intake and Exhaust will effect boost on this car. Not so mush response being that it is tied to the engine. But makeing it easier for you engine to suck in air will allow your S/C to more easily do it job and robbing less power from your engine. This is because super chargers are driven by the engines power.
Engine Managment/Chip/ resistors.
Resistor- temporarraly "trick" your engine, so to add more fuel and air. potencailly dangerous due to the fact that it provides fales readings. Temporary because you ecu will adjust to compensate for the abnormal signal. This can prove damageing to you OBD sensors as well as your engine as a hole.
G-Box/G-Box gold/ Triphase
These are relativly simple chips that serve to adjust fuel curves while still maintaining MPG relativly well. They Claim that "90% of there cars experience + or - 1 MPG after install. ( These are tipical numbers from vehicle to vehilce and state to state MPG numbers) They Are safe on applications on S/C vehicles, However if you order one you must specify that you do as is noraml for almost all mods.
ECU remaps and computer flashes.
These are not the best bang for the buck but sill the best bang. This is basically retuning your computer to be more accuate and efficent in fuel curves, Air fuel ratio, shift times ( for auto) and some others depending on application. An ECU reflash should be the last of the mods as you can have your computer tunned to your specific mod set. ECU also serve to maxize gain on all your other mods, as well as won't void warrenty.
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