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subc
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Posted: Sep 03 2007 at 10:00pm | IP Logged Quote subc

quick question.. I am trying to get the lowest of the lowest price for a new XE frontier (basic model with 2 optional packages).

Do dealerships really pay MSRP for a car to the manufacturer? Can I come up to them with cash in hand minus a grand of MSRP and still get the car? Any techniques you guys know to really push the price down?
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Frontyfan
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Posted: Sep 04 2007 at 12:29am | IP Logged Quote Frontyfan

dealerships do not pay MSRP for it otherwise they'd be losing money left and right, because if you look at a manufacturer's website and build yourself a truck, say on NissanUsa.com then you will see a price that you almost won't certainly pay at a dealer otherwise their lots would never move any vehicles. Of course, sticker prices are on there because there are some people who don't haggle either cause they don't know how or don't want to, and will walk onto a lot and say i want this, how much is it..and sign the paperwork. i am sure dealerships love those kind of people willing to pay MSRP, because it maximizes their profit on the unit. if you glance at a weekend paper you will usually see prices on trucks for sales events or whatnot and they are almost certainly not MSRP's listed.

i know that when my brother had just graduated from college and bought an 05 fronty, he worked his price down to paying just 50 dollars more than what the dealership probably paid for the truck. but my brother also interned in a finance dept while in high school. so he has a little bit more insight to this than most do i would guess. needless to say i took my brother with me to beat up the sales guys when i bought my truck even tho i was buying a used fronty.

 

lol short answer i bet if you showed up with a grand less than MSRP and said i want this truck. they'd fall all over themselves to get the paperwork done, especially if you said do the deal in 30 min or less. i do however think you could get a better price. nissan is having a national sales event currently i think (unless it ended, not sure about that) or if you can hold out..wait til the end of the year when they will be trying to move vehicles off the lost to avoid paying taxes on inventory.

 

sorry for the lengthy post



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lakota
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Posted: Sep 04 2007 at 1:22am | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

 

MSRP - Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price.  Sometimes some vehicles are sold for more than MSRP!

... The dealers pay what is known as invoice price. How ever Factories give dealers rebates on slow selling vehicles and poor selling vehicles. Customer discounts are often given by the dealer and factory to help sell the ones they put the discounts on. ..

To get the best deal be patient, visit the dealer once a week four three or four weeks straight. The sales manager may give you a good deal just so you’ll stop putting finger prints all over his new cars!

... Due to sales quotas  the  best deals are at the end of week, month and sales year plus tax time. Dealers make a profit on financing vehicles so a cash sale doesn’t mean much to them. If you have a trade in DETAIL it before they even see or appraise it! They allow more trade-in for clean cars. But first make them think you will not be trading one in and get the bottom dollar straight sale price. Then… ’change your mind’ and get the trade-in price.

When I buy a vehicle I know more about it than any of the sales people. So study up on the products. Don't look like a fool.... Or wear a disguise..

Enjoy the ride! And

Have a good one while you can still laugh about it.. Don S..

It would be nice if our members would add their vehicle information to their signature (similar to mine) plus add their City and State . A member in the same town might be willing to drop by and help you with a problem.



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Posted: Sep 04 2007 at 11:55pm | IP Logged Quote gwells

I paid $21235 out the door (including everything, taxes (3% in VA), tags ($100), etc) for my 07 SE Crew Cab Shortbed 2WD Auto with tow pkg and SE Value Truck pkg. MSRP was $24315, and that doesn't include taxes, tags, freight, or any dealer "fees." if you add those to the MSRP, the out the door cost would have been over $26k.

my first piece of advice? never go into a dealership to negotiate a price. you're at their mercy there. only two things i did at the dealership were the original test drive and the final sales paperwork. i did all of my negotiation over the internet/telephone. i dealt with sales managers or internet sales guys at 6-7 dealerships. when i was ready to buy, i called about 8 local dealerships (i live outside of DC, so there are about 12 within 45 minutes), got the sales mgr/internet sales mgr names, asked to be transferred to them, then told them i would be buying a truck in the next three days (by Friday, best to do this during the week when they're not as busy). i asked for their email addresses, told them i would email the specs of what i was looking for that night, and that i would like their best offer by COB the next day. i told them i would give them all a chance to beat the best price and that i wouldn't drag out the purchase, i *WOULD* purchase by friday. in the end, the best deal i got was the first one. $600 under invoice for everything (including options) in addition to the $2000 rebate.

couple of places to look to learn about dealing for a new vehicle.

www.fightingchance.com. costs a little money, but you'll get a lot of info about why the method above can work for you and how to go about it.

www.carbuyingtips.com
. good info about buying cars.


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subc
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Posted: Sep 05 2007 at 2:16am | IP Logged Quote subc

hey gwells, thanks a lot for the advice.

I really want to draw a line by myself, so I can actually finance using a credit union and not the dealership bank or financial institution.

Its a really good advice to do everything on the phone/email, and I think I will gollow that now. I do recall on my last visit to the dealership that they wanted me to sign who knows what papers, give them a check just to show my good faith and I do not know what else. lol

I didn't ;)
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Posted: Sep 08 2007 at 5:58am | IP Logged Quote tablesaw

You can get an idea of pricing on Edmunds.com and they list incentives also. They have some pretty good advice there on buying vehicles. It helps a WHALE OF A LOT, to have two or three dealerships fighting for your dollars, too. Pitting one against another is a time-honored and totally worthwhile endeavor for your dollars. I'm doing that right now, in fact, and have gotten some excellent offers. Don't walk into any dealership without a boatload of info at hand, know what incentives are offered, know what your trade is worth (NOT what they offer, negotiate HARD with them, they deserve it! Remember that they are NOT your friends, auto dealerships are businesses, trying to make all they can make. If you're sharp, you can make them work hard and get a good deal. If you're not informed, you can, and likely will, get worked over pretty hard. If anyone's gonna get worked over, make sure it's THEM. Be alert, and always, always always, don't be afraid to walk away and look somewhere else. That's always an attention getter, it makes them aware that you'll not take a working-over.

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Posted: Sep 08 2007 at 11:17am | IP Logged Quote Frontyfan

yep, as i said you CAN negotiate, i'll repeat what i mentioned before..having all the knowledge you can will help, when i bought my truck, i knew roughly how much it was worth on trade in, what a dealer would try and sell it for, even tho it was used, and i told them...for the turn around you are getting on this truck and not really putting any money into it....you aren't gonna get me to pay any higher than what i told them i was willing to pay. Because as i said before..i financed outside with my credit union, i had my budget worked out completely and had a cashiers check ready to rock...but i didn't tell them that. everyone here has listed some good tips, good luck again.

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Posted: Sep 08 2007 at 9:18pm | IP Logged Quote gwells

just remember, when you negotiate hard, *don't* do it in the dealership. they have the upper hand when you're in their store. you have the upper hand when you're not. know what you want, know what it's worth. *then* call and/or email and negotiate. do it from your own sofa.

once you're in the dealership, they have you where they want you. they'll do all kinds of stuff to try to keep you there long enough to wear you down. but when you're at home, especially via email, you can ignore pressure. you don't have to go through the "threatening to walk out" stuff, or the "ok, here's my manager to negotiate with you now" crap.

plus the internet guys seem to have more leeway on pricing. i can't tell you why, but everything i've read tells me that and the guy i talked to (john morrison at www.herbgordonnissan.com) was very relaxed, gave me a price $600 under invoice along with the $2k rebate, and the only time i spent in the dealership was to sign paperwork and pick up the truck.


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Posted: Sep 21 2007 at 6:44pm | IP Logged Quote Brutus3383

...and when you get down to a price you want, tell the dealer it's your "out-the-door" price.  That way, they can't stick you with their BS additional dealer profit for handling, doing paperwork etc.  Most dealerships charge $300-$500 for this.  Worst part is some won't tell you until you're ready to sign.

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2006_FrontierLE
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Posted: Nov 16 2007 at 1:26pm | IP Logged Quote 2006_FrontierLE

I used Edmunds.com.... They list MSRP and invoice pricing... Base plus all the add-ons.

I got my 2006 Frontier LE for $5000 less than MSRP.  I added up all the invoice pricing found on Edmunds.com and knew about how much the dealer paid... and negotiated from there.... after visiting 3 Nissan dealerships I picked up the phone and started calling instead.... 

As gwells said... it was much easier to get the price I wanted over the phone.

http://www.edmunds.com/

 

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