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DaveMania07
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Posted: Nov 28 2006 at 1:01am | IP Logged Quote DaveMania07

Hey Everybody,
I've had an 01 crew cab s/c for the past few years and my only complaint is the gas mileage. I'm just trying to find out what other 01 owners get. When I first got the truck i would go about 180 to 190 miles per tank IF i babied it, now that I have intake and exhaust i'll go maybe 220 if I don't get on the gas ever. Is it me or does that seem ridiculously terrible? If You have an 01 can you post what kind and how many miles you get per tank? If you could that could give me some evidence when I go to the nissan dealership I got it from and bitch somebody out.
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Frontyfan
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Posted: Nov 28 2006 at 3:42am | IP Logged Quote Frontyfan

well the supercharger would make a difference, after a quick peek at autotrader's reference area, the fuel efficiency listings give the following.

2001 S/C CC  15 city/18 hwy

2001 SE-V6 16 city/19 hwy

now if you are 4wd and using it from time to time that would cause you to drop some mpg, however i suspect you would know that. these engines, the 3.3 weren't the best on being light on gas, however i own an 01 SE CC and am getting around mid 17 mpg with mostly city driving, this last tank i got i think 17.9 i calculated, which i was ecstatic about lol. however i have learned to drive very conservative compared to how i used to drive when i drove a 240SX. regardless, i would think that 180-190 miles per tank is VERY low even for the S/C and babying it. are you driving to empty or are you filling up at like a quarter tank and how are you calculating mpg, the generally accepted way accept for electronic monitoring is as follows (if you don't know, if you do, just disregard)

when you fill up, reset your trip meter, the next time you fill up, take the number of gallons you fill and divide that by the number of miles on your trip meter (or the difference between the odometer at 2nd fill up vs the first fill up divided by the number of gallons, which the miles should be the same)

again, it just seem very low, your pre-mod numbers especially for driving "conservative", but babying it is relative to ones individual driving style. and possibly your numbers you indicate now might be low as well, but as i indicated i don't drive the S/C model. maybe some other S/C drivers will be able to tell you what their numbers are



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lakota
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Posted: Nov 28 2006 at 3:06pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

DaveMania07;

Welcome to the group!

Calculating fuel mile is not an exact science but doing it by the tank full is being somewhat of a guessing game.

... Many vehicles have a problem getting the final (up to) two gallons of fuel in the tank including our Sentra, Frontier and Grand Cherokee. Sometimes air bubbles are displacing fuel and sometimes not. A lot depends on how level the surface is near the pump.

... Your fuel mileage also depends on the accuracy of the odometer reading and all of it depends on tire pressure and size and driver skill. All the above assumes that the truck is properly tuned and driven.

The wife and I keep accurate mileage and fuel records and we check the accuracy of the odometers.

Boosting Fuel Mileage update 09.29.06

... It takes X amount of power to move gasoline engine vehicles from point to point. The engine converts gasoline to heat as the power source. Much more than fifty percent of the heat is wasted unused and is dissipated though the radiator and exhaust system. Large cubic displacement engines normally consume more fuel than smaller engines but this is not a ‘hard’ fact..

FOOD for THOUGHT. Why are four cylinder engines capable of better fuel mileage than six or eight cylinder engines of the same size and at the same RPM? This is due to the longer duration of the combustion stoke allowed by fewer cylinders. The longer duration for the burning process in a four cylinder is double that of an eight cylinder. The eight is more wasteful in theory than the four or six cylinder engines. More cylinders shorten the time that combustion has to finish the job of totally burning all the fuel especially at max power out put. One of the fuel saving technologies of the day is reducing the of fuel using ‘cubic inches’ of the engine when full power is not required.

... Here is a list of a few of the mechanical things that can effect fuel mileage.

Cam and ignition timing, cam lift, duration and valve size. Leaky fuel delivery systems with vented vapor losses, restricted air induction systems i.e. dirty filters. Intake air can also be too hot or cold. Restricted exhaust scavenging systems. Operating temperatures of fuel and engine. Carburetors with bad power valves, accelerator pumps and fouled choke systems. Carbon fouled injectors, sparkplugs, and piston rings. Type of transmission, automatics without lock-up converters and over-drives, gear ratios. The type of tires, tire size, the tire pressures and the wheel alignment. Example; Just think, is it possible that larger wider tires require less ‘toe in’ that could reduce drag and get better fuel mileage? But the larger wider tires cause increased air flow resistance. The vehicle speed, the load, the wind speed and direction. The list can continue on including the type and additive mix of the gasoline. Gasoline blends are changed continually by local area, altitude and season. These are changes in the volatility of the gasoline. Winter Gasoline will evaporate much faster in the summer temperatures and less octane is required at high altitudes.The driver knowledge and ability is the big factor for achieving the best fuel mileage if the vehicle is in proper condition.

Make sure the odometer in the vehicle is showing correct mileage. IG means miles per gallon NOT miles per 'tank full'

An example of the simple formula is 200 miles divided by 10 gallons = 20 MPG

Full tank amounts will vary due to air trapped in the tank but the MPG will average out in the long run.

Here are a few thoughts about saving fuel.

First thing a driver will notice when they start to conserve fuel is it will agitate other drivers around his vehicle. Please be considerate of other drivers who have no concept of your economy driving. The other drivers want to race to the next stoplight and remember, If they don’t get there quick enough they won’t get to stop! When the timing of stop lights is known then speeding up to make a green light can save a little. 1. Think about driving as an art while doing so. Stop rubber-necking, turn off the music, turn off the cell and drive.

2. Install a dash-mounted vacuum gauge and use it. As the fuel mileage drops the vacuum needle drops. Try to prevent the needle from dropping below five inches. Readings will change with altitude changes.

3. Drive as if you had a fresh egg taped on the accelerator AND brake pedals.

4. Apply accelerator and brake petals smoothly.

5. Reduce speed as much and as soon as possible. Speeds above 50 MPH eat into the pocketbook!

6. Scan far ahead of your vehicle for traffic control signals and things that will allow you to ‘get off the gas’ sooner so you don’t have to ‘hit’ the brakes as hard – later. The over use of brakes means fuel has been wasted.

7. Drive as if your afraid your brakes are in poor condition and you are trying to save them.

8. Purchase your fuel in the morning when it’s cool and keep the tank full.

9. Air you tires up when they are cold and on the plus side of the recommended pressure and check them often especially on cold days. switching to nitrogen in the tires might help fuel mileage. Soft tires eat fuel!

10. Small amounts of high quality low ash synthetic Out Board 2cycle oil in the fuel (less than ¼ Oz per gallon) will clean and lubricate and reduce friction. The low ash oil will help the following items for better fuel mileage and life; electric gyrator fuel pumps, carburetor/injector parts, spark plugs, valve stems, compression rings and EGR systems. One fouled spark plug can drop fuel consumption by 10 percent. One sticky fuel injector can drop fuel mileage by up to one third.

11. Air dams can enhance cooling and reduce aerodynamic drag. Reduce the amount of air getting under the truck because the underside of vehicles create much air turbulence and drag at highway speeds. Bug shields, sun visors, wind deflectors, large roof top racks and large outside mirrors will reduce fuel mileage. Small camper shells or bed covers on pick-ups seem to aid fuel mileage.

12. The effect of heavy loads is detrimental to fuel mileage and brake life.

13. Modifying a vehicle with lifts and large wide tires is detrimental to fuel mileage and brake life.

14. Cruise control may save fuel in ‘flatlands’ but may not be economical in hilly country.

15. In hilly country do not allow the down hill run to cause engine ‘braking’ i.e. slowing down the vehicle unnecessarily. Run your fastest speed at the bottom of a hill and the slowest at the top. ... Only use engine braking when the vehicle is going to gain excessive and unsafe speed that would have required a fair amount of regular brakes. Excessive downhill braking can cause many heat related problems. Among these are warped rotors, brake fade, boiling brake fluid, wearing out pads, over heating seals, bearings and lubricants.

... Down hill engine braking and downshifting for increased engine braking is not going to consume very much fuel because the throttle will be closed. Long downhill runs of five or more percent grades are a good time for downshift engine braking. Two miles of seven-percent grades with curves should be mandatory.

So in hilly country it's a case of the having to use more throttle to regain the speed you lost by allowing short periods of unnecessary engine braking.

16. Allow the engine to warm up and/or drive gently till it does. Cold engines can get poor fuel mileage.

17. Put the transmission in neutral or stop the engine when long waits in traffic are encountered I.e. train crossings and long red traffic lights.

18. Reduce the Air Conditioning and the electrical demands on the alternator. Alternators draw much horsepower and extra fuel so fancy lights and sound systems burn extra gasoline and bother other peoples eyes and ears.

19. Short shifting. If the automatic transmission is equipped with overdrive and/or lock-up torque converter learn at what speeds it changes gears/locks. Often one can get the transmission into overdrive and lock the converter sooner by backing off the accelerator pedal a little at the right time.

20. The use of WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to gain speed is wasting fuel.

21. Consolidate your trips. Do more errands per trip and reduce the number of trips. This doesn't increase mileage but can cut the use of fuel.

22. Hey!.. wake-up!! We are sorry we put you to sleep… do you have any other ideas?

Have a good one,   and CUL.. Don S



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DaveMania07
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Posted: Nov 28 2006 at 8:00pm | IP Logged Quote DaveMania07

I usually fill up the tank and set the odometer, then when the gas light comes on I fill up again, however many gallons of gas went into the car, I use the reading on the fuel pump, I use that to calculate gas mileage. For example, last tank I filled up was yesterday with 16 gallons. and I drove 210 miles. therefore, 13 miles per gallon. This normally wouldn't bother me, but if I didint have an exhaust and CAI then the number would have been more like 178 miles and the gas mileage would be about 11 per gallon. This is of course not getting on the throttle at all, basically never taking it too far over 2000 rpms.
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lakota
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Posted: Nov 28 2006 at 11:38pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

DaveMania07;

Well that sounds better knowing the exact mileage.

Normally I get 21 to 24 mpg on the highway by following example 10. Example 10 has worked extremely well for 15 years in all my vehicles. But one time last year the mileage dropped Frontier to 20 for several tanks fulls so a friend poured a bottle of Lucus gas treatment in the tank and the mileage came back up.

Example 10. Small amounts of high quality low ash synthetic Out Board 2cycle oil in the fuel (less than ¼ Oz per gallon) will clean and lubricate and reduce friction. The low ash oil will help the following items for better fuel mileage and life; electric gyrator fuel pumps, carburetor/injector parts, spark plugs, valve stems, compression rings and EGR systems. One fouled spark plug can drop fuel consumption by 10 percent. One sticky fuel injector can drop fuel mileage by up to one third.

Have a good one,   and CUL.. Don S..



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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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malmon
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Posted: Jan 29 2007 at 8:33am | IP Logged Quote malmon


I try to set my odometer to zero everytime after filling up on older cars that I had driven and my '01 CC V6 (stock) fuel pump lights up usually around 220 miles to 240 on highway driving and city is way below that.

I believe the data above contributes to the varying MPGs that we see on most vehicles, just my .02





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