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howardck Newbie
Joined: Jul 14 2019
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Location: Canada
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Posted: Nov 07 2019 at 1:46pm | IP Logged
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Hi,
I'm a total nubie when it comes to towing. We've purchased a new trailer to go
with our 2018 Frontier, and the trailer manufacturer says we need a Class 3
hitch with a 2" ball whose top sits 16.5" above the ground. I'm looking at
picking up a Curt 12341 trailer hitch, but I don't know if the ball is going to be
at the required height. Is 16.5" a standard for all hitches? If not, how to do you
find one that's going to sit at the required height?
Thanks!
Howard
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Rubble Moderator Group
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Posted: Nov 08 2019 at 6:14am | IP Logged
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howardck wrote:
Hi,
I'm a total nubie when it comes to towing. We've
purchased a new trailer to go
with our 2018 Frontier, and the trailer manufacturer
says we need a Class 3
hitch with a 2" ball whose top sits 16.5" above the
ground. I'm looking at
picking up a Curt 12341 trailer hitch, but I don't know
if the ball is going to be
at the required height. Is 16.5" a standard for all
hitches? If not, how to do you
find one that's going to sit at the required height?
Thanks!
Howard |
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Howard,
I recommend the Nissan Receiver for your Truck. It has
a mounting plate for the 7 pin plug. Nissan's Reciver
for the Frontier is a Class IV Receiver.
You'll also need the kit for the 7 pin plug that has
the plug in module's for the Light's, Brake's and Turn
signal's. I recommend the Nissan Kit.
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-ballmount.aspx#measure
The above link is how to figure the Draw Bar Height and
then purchase the draw bar that has the correct Drop or
Rise. On my '13 SVV6 mine has a drop in the Draw Bar,,
but I can't remember if it is 2" or 1". Anyway you
need to figure for your own truck because the Receiver
Height might be different.
https://andersenhitches.com/
Take a look at Anderson Draw Bars. They are made out
of Billet Aluminum and look good for years with a
little bit of Mother's Aluminum Polish.
Also check out BullyDog's SS Hitch Ball's. I got my 2"
Ball at PepBoy's that is rated for more than the Truck
is rated at and I recommend getting stronger everything
than what the Truck is Rated to Tow.
Good Luck
__________________ Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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howardck Newbie
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Posted: Nov 08 2019 at 11:15am | IP Logged
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Barney,
That's very useful information. After following your links and reading further, I
now know a lot more about hitches and what's involved in towing trailers.
Thank you!
I might go the official Nissan parts route, although it looks a fair bit more
expensive than doing it myself, mainly because of the issues on the electrical
wiring side. More reading coming up!
Thanks again,
Howard
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Rubble Moderator Group
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Posted: Nov 08 2019 at 12:28pm | IP Logged
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howardck wrote:
Barney,
That's very useful information. After following your
links and reading further, I
now know a lot more about hitches and what's involved
in towing trailers.
Thank you!
I might go the official Nissan parts route, although it
looks a fair bit more
expensive than doing it myself, mainly because of the
issues on the electrical
wiring side. More reading coming up!
Thanks again,
Howard |
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Howard,
I did mine myself and used the class IV Nissan Receiver
+ Nissan 7 pin wireing kit + Anderson Draw bar max LB
rateing is much more than the 6500 tow rateing + Bully
SS 2" hitch ball/7500 lb rateing.
You can go to Nissan Parts online and get the part #
for the class IV Receiver and 7 Pin Wireing Kit. Then
go to BeeLineParts.com, Amazon.com, EBay.com to see who
has the best price. BeeLineparts.com is geniune Nissan
parts at a Nissan Dealer in Georgia; I've gotten my
Nissan Oil filter's from them on Amazon.com.
Once you get the Draw bar height figured out,, you can
go to anderson's site to see which draw bar you want,
see their price, and go to Amazon and Ebay to see who's
got the best price.
I found Bully's SS Hitch ball at Pep Boy's for about 20
$'s. You can also opt for a regular Steel Ball if you
prefer the Rusted Ball Look after a few time's of
pulling your Trailer. I prefer the SS Hitch Ball &
Billet Aluminum Draw Bar, that stay's shiney so the
Tail Gate'rs can see what's going to punch a hole in
their front bumper if I have to slam on my brake's.
The direction's for installing the Receiver and 7 pin
wireing install come with the kit's. Oh yea don't
forget to get a Locking Pin to help keep someone from
stealing your Draw Bar; They are also available in SS
unless you prefer the Rusted look after a while.
It does take some reading and figureing to get it
right,, but it's worth the work to get it right.
You'll also be able to see rightoff those that didn't
do any reading and Put out any effort to get it right.
It's not hard just a little time to do it yourself.
Good Luck
PS: Be sure to reduce Max Tow Rateing by about 20 to
30%. What I did was subtract GWR of the Truck from The
GCWR, then I took another 15% off of that to come up
with about 4700 LBs max tow rateing. I also took
another 20 to 30% off of the Trailer Frontal Area, as
well as the Max Tongue Wgt Rateing.
All of the above bring's Down the total Max Towing
Wgt,, but it's much better to be on the convervative
side for Safety and Truck Towing Ability. Also
consider Strongly a Weight Distributing Hitch for the
Trailer or at least Air Bags for the TRuck rear axle to
keep the headlight's shineing down the Road, rather
than at the Milky Way.
__________________ Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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howardck Newbie
Joined: Jul 14 2019
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Posted: Nov 14 2019 at 4:26pm | IP Logged
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Thanks Barney, I didn't see your followup reply until just now.
I've got the part nos. for the Nissan hitch and the wiring harness and am going
to contact a (relatively) local dealer tomorrow to see what's in stock or how
long I might have to wait. I think your suggestion on getting genuine Nissan
parts is a good one; it simplifies a lot of what I might have had to do otherwise.
I've got a great mechanic here locally, so I'm going to go pick up the parts from
Nissan and then have my local guy do the work, which looks (but what do I
know! :-) pretty straightforward. At least for someone who does that sort of
thing every day (unlike myself).
So thanks again. And also for the pointers on getting the draw bar stuff figured
out.
Howard
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Rubble Moderator Group
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Posted: Nov 14 2019 at 11:46pm | IP Logged
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Hello Howard,
Good choice IMO. The Nissan Hitch make's for a nice
Clean Settup.
Be sure to get the Geniune Nissan 7 pin wireing kit.
An adapter is
available to go 7 to 4 pin,, but a 4 pin wireing kit
can't got to a 7 pin.
Be sure to plug in the part #'s on Ebay and Amazon.
Several Nissan Dealer's are selling on Amazon and EBay
at substantially less price's. Just double check to
make sure the Part's are Geniune Nissan for a Nice
Clean and Strong settup.
I was wrong about the 2" Bully Ball being 7500 Lb's;
After I rechecked the Ball it has a 7K lb rateing. I
do recommend an SS Ball unless you prefer the Rusted
Metal Look. Don't get confused with the Chrome Plated
Ball's at they are just for show and the Chrome Plate
rub's off easily resulting in the rusted Metal Look.
The Anderson Aluminum Hitch's are IMO really nice and
easily kept shiney with any metal polish. They are
rated stronger than the Frontier is Rated to Pull. I
like Mother's the best though. I got several
container's from Pep Boy's when they had an Online
Sale. They were cheaper than when WalMart was selling
the Mother's Metal Polish in liquid form.
You have a good Plan and on the way to haveing a Good
Strong Hitch settup.
Don't forget the Locking Hitch/Drawbar Pin, they are
also available in SS or I think even aluminum. They
are also availble on EBay and Amazon. You don't want
to put extra money into a draw bar and hitch
Ball, and have someone steal it. I hate theive's, but
I guess they are part of what make's the World Go
Around.
Thank's for updateing and throw us a Pic when you get
it all put together.
Regards,
__________________ Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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howardck Newbie
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Posted: Nov 15 2019 at 3:54pm | IP Logged
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The Nissan parts are all on order; I head into town on Tuesday to pick them up.
The draw bar and ball, as well as a brake controller to come later. We're on our
way ...! :-)
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Rubble Moderator Group
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Posted: Nov 17 2019 at 12:51am | IP Logged
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howardck wrote:
The Nissan parts are all on order; I
head into town on Tuesday to pick them up.
The draw bar and ball, as well as a brake controller to
come later. We're on our
way ...! :-) |
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Howard,
I noticed that there are some SS Draw bar's out now,
and they might be an alternative to the Billet Aluminum
from Anderson. The SS might be a little bit cheaper as
well. Just make sure the Hole for the Hitch Ball is
big enough for the Hitch Ball Shank.
I got my 2" SS Hitch Ball from PepBoy's for about 18 to
20 $'s but I've noticed that they've gone up a little
bit since 6 years ago.
Walmart.com has a 2" SS Ball for about 27 $'s, just
make sure that the Shank is 1" inch diameter and I
think mine has a 2" inch long shank with just enough
length to go through the thick Aluminum Drawbar and has
just enough length to get the Lock washer and Nut on
with the shank just barely at the bottom of the nut.
Some of the SS Hitch Ball's only have a rateing of 6K
lbs. You don't want them. My Truck has a Pull Rateing
of 6500 lbs so I wanted a ball with at least 6500 lb
rateing. Some SS 2" ball's have a rateing of 8K lb's,,
and it's always better to have a higher Ball rateing
than the Truck's Pull rateing.
With you going Geniune Nissan on the Receiver and 7 pin
Wireing kit,, it will look just like Factory Fitted.
Regards,
__________________ Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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