Posted: Nov 23 2005 at 8:12pm | IP Logged

I had to take my dash apart to work on the blower switch, now my air-bag light keeps flashing. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset it, but it still flashes constantly. It's a 98 extended cab 4x4. Any ideas as to how to fix this? I never did get the blower switch fixed   It's odd all summer the high position didn't work, now the high is the only position that does work.  How do ya go about getting that switch control out of the dash without stripping it to the frame?

Thanks all.

Bill

Posted: Nov 23 2005 at 9:04pm | IP Logged

First off... you probably had the dash apart, and turned on the truck.  There's a code that sets because the turn off switch or air bag light is disconnected.  There are 2 ways to have the code cleared.

1.  Take the truck to the dealership, and they'll clear it for $60 or so.

2.  If you have a buddy that works in a shop that has a Snap On Solus scanner, or equivilant OBD II scanner, they will be able to erase the code.
(note: not ALL OBD II scanners can "pull" this code up... or even clear it.  The Snap On Solus will because I have used it before on mine.)

Now for your blower switch problem.  It's not the switch that is the problem.  There is a resistor assembly somewhere (either behind the climate control, or near the fan motor) that is fried.  This resistor assembly reduces the voltage going to your fan motor, giving you the different speeds.

Posted: Nov 30 2005 at 1:38pm | IP Logged

Hello,

Interesting topic.  While driving my 2000 CrewCab V6 SE home yesterday, my blower fan just up and quit on me.  It does not work on any position.  I checked all the fuses and relays but they all look good.  Is replacing the resistor enough or should I replace the blower/fan unit as well?  Is this a project for a person that is not a car mechanic? Also, if I disconnect the air bag circuitry, will I end up with an air-bag error regardless of starting the truck while disassembled or not?

Thanks for your input.

Rich

Posted: Nov 30 2005 at 5:27pm | IP Logged

To answer the airbag question first.

As long as the truck stays OFF (no keys in the ignition), when you do all the work.  It will be fine, just make sure EVERYTHING is connected back to where it's supposed to be, before you turn the truck on. 

Now for the Blower/Fan.  Replacing the resistor is not enough, because the resistor only controls low and medium speeds.  It does this by lowering the voltage to the fan motor.  High is nothing but 12 volts to the fan.

If you have some basic skills, you might possibly be able to change out the blower fan.  I have not looked to see EXACTLY where it is located, so I cannot say for sure how much of a pain it would be.  To gain the easiest access, you'll need to open the glove box fully.  Do this by first emptying the glove box, then you'll need to manipulate it to allow it to rotate out of the pocket. 

Here I'm not sure either how it is exactly done, but there are 2 main styles used.  One requires pushing 2 tabs, on the left and right side in order to release the box.  The other is reaching to the back, and pulling down on the box to allow it past a stop. 

From here you should be able to see the motor.  They're usually bolted in, or possibly worse, riveted.  But I don't think Nissan would bother with that.  Here's where your basic mechanic skills will come in handy.  It's best to check the motor for operation before actually removing it.  You can do this by checking to see if it receives power or not.

You'll need a 12v test light, (like $5 set or so at Wal-mart, sears, etc.)  Or a Multimeter.  Test light is the easiest to work with.  Then to check for power. 

Find the plug that attaches to the fan motor, it should be a connector with 2 to 4 wires depending upon how it is wired, (more than likely just 2)  One of them should be black, this is the ground.  The other or others will be a different color.  Attach your alligator clip to a GOOD ground, (any metal framing under the dash).  This is very important, because without a GOOD ground for the test light, it will not work, giving you the wrong feedback.

Turn on the truck, and set your blower to HIGH.  Take your test light, and poke it into the connector with the "other" color wire. 

If the light comes on, there's 2 possibilities, the motor is bad, or your grounding is bad.  To check the ground is easy, with the truck on, and fan still on high, poke the test light into the "Black" wire connection.  If the fan starts, your ground is bad.  Then it's just a matter of tracing the wire.  If the fan doesn't do anything, it must be replaced.

If the light does not come on, turn the truck off, and check connections behind the dash... or fuses UNDER the hood. 

This may look like it's a lot of trouble, but it's not.  It takes me 5 mins at most to do it, but I do this kind of stuff EVERYDAY.  If you want to try it out, my only suggestion is to TAKE IT SLOW!!!!  Don't rush trying to pull stuff apart, you'll just end up breaking it. 

Just ask if you have anymore questions.

Posted: Dec 10 2005 at 11:07pm | IP Logged

 Well, it was the blower.  Funny how nobody has one in stock when you need one.  I didn't have to bother with the SRS.  It wasn't in the way.  Anyway, it took me about 10 minutes to swap it out and it wouldn't have taken that long if I hadn't dropped a screw behind the side molding near the door.  Thanks for the info.