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noreaster
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Posted: Aug 13 2008 at 8:39pm | IP Logged Quote noreaster

Just did my first  oil change on my '08 Frontier. What a pain! The very first oil change was done at the dealer because it was free. Since I've almost always done my own oil changes I figured I'd do it with this vehicle too.

Once I found the oil filter behind the door in the shroud I had a hard time getting a good angle to get it off. Of course I didn't have the right size oil filter wrench either but even if I did I'm not sure I could get the right angle. Ended up twisting around and scraping up my forearm to finally get the filter off. Then when I did get it loose of course the oil ran right down my arm and made a mess. I wasn't impressed.

Was it me doing something wrong or have others had the same experience. I'm seriously considering taking it someplace to let them deal with it next time. Especially if it's cold and in the winter.

noreaster


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Boomer
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Posted: Aug 14 2008 at 4:39am | IP Logged Quote Boomer

Some go in from the side of the metal shield.  I took off the little door that is held on by two screws, took a file and smoothed the edges of the hole so I wouldn't be cut.  I  bought a small end of filter wrench (looks like a giant socket) and use that to loosen the filter.  Then I hand remove the filter wearing rubber gloves.  I use home-made ramps to give me an additional 3" or so of ground clearance and it all works out great.  I also pack old raggs behind the opening to catch and absorb any oil that tries to run behind.  It makes cleanup a lot easier.  The second time I did the change it was becoming routine.

Remember to get the new copper gaskets from the dealer to put on the oil pan bolt each time to prevent leaks and don't overtighten the bolt.  I would also recommend using Mobil 1.  You can buy a 5 qt container for about $23 at Wal Mart.  Use a Nissan OEM filter while you are under warranty or a high quality aftermarket like  Wix, NAPA Gold (also a Wix) or a Mobil1.  Keep receipts and put them in a book along with date and mileage of the change.   I also drained out my two differentials at 9,000 miles and refilled them, the rear with Mobil 1 75W-90 (I have the C-200 rear) and the front with 80W-90 Valvoline Semi-Syn.  I was amazed how much metal dust was on the magents.  Make sure you take out the filler plug BEFORE removing the drain plugs and use a torque wrench to reseal the plugs with new metal gaskets you can get at the dealer.



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dannyg
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Posted: Aug 14 2008 at 8:34am | IP Logged Quote dannyg

danny g a little of topic to boomer head is rattled one dealer told me i have a D44 but the dealer i bought from called it a c226 how can i get a stright answer is somthing on the window sticker. On topic godd ponit on filing those edges down gouing to the oil filter

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Posted: Aug 14 2008 at 3:42pm | IP Logged Quote Boomer

Dannyg, here is an old post from a different site.  Hope this is what you are looking for!

The axle code is located on the door jamb sticker on Nissans. If it's not there, there are visual ways of determining what you have. On some older trucks it's on a plate in the engine bay above the fender well on the passenger side.

HF35 - H190 axle found in weenie 2wd Hardbodies.
HF37 - H190 axle found in weenie 2wd Frontiers

CA41 - Found on 720's - This is a C200/R180 combo with 4.11 gearing. Some 720's have the smaller H190 rear end that's identified by not having a removable rear diff cover. R180 front ends in 720's are different than the Hardbody and Frontier versions, as the diff is nearly centered. 720's use unequal length halfshafts and are not interchangeable. All 1986.5+ halfshafts are interchangeable left to right.

CA43 - found on 720's and Hardbodies. C200 rear / R180 front, 4.375:1 gearing

CA46 - found on Hardbodies and 4 banger Frontiers - C200 rear / R180 front, 4.625:1 gears

CA45 - found in 2003+ Frontier 4x4's. This is a C200/R180 combination with a new gear ratio - 4.5something:1 The C200 was upgraded to 31 splines on this model from the previous 29 spline unit.

HG43 - Found on Pathfinders, V6 Hardbodies, and a few '99 Frontiers - H233B rear / R200 front, 4.375:1 gearing. On the 2000+ 33 spline axles, the HG43 has a 4.363 ratio, however this is not a common axle code on the later models.

HG46 - found on auto equipped pathfinders, 96-97 hardody 4 bangers, many Xterras and Frontiers. This one has some variation. Pre-2000 versions are the H233B axle with 4.625:1 gearing (31 spline axles). 2000+ is the H233B axle with 4.636:1 gearing (33 spline axles). Typically comes with an R200 front axle, with the exception being in the '96-97 Hardbody pickups - those had an H233B / R180 combination. Axle shafts in the H233B were 31 spline up to about 2000, where they switched to 33 spline shafts. All Xterras and R50 Pathfinders received the 33 spline axles. In Frontiers, it can be a crapshoot if you have a '99-'00 model, though it is believed that the switchover was at or near 2/00 production date.

HG49 - found in mid year 2001+ Frontiers and Xterras. H233B / R200 combo with 4.90:1 gears.




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Posted: Aug 14 2008 at 3:47pm | IP Logged Quote Boomer

Dannyg, some more info on the newer trucks: 

 

seems that the following is the axle breakdown
CA = C200, and the CC = the Dana/Nissan D44 (m226)

C200
SE CC 4x4 Auto = CA33
SE KC 4x4 Auto = CA31
SE KC 4x2 Auto = CA29
LE KC 4x2 Auto = CA29

D44 Variant
NISMO KC & CC 4x4 Auto = CC33
NISMO KC & CC 4x2 Auto = CC31
NISMO KC 6spd = CC36
SE KC 4x4 6spd = CC35
SE CC 4x4 6spd = CC36

Still Need:

SE CC 4X2 Auto
SE KC & CC 4X2 6spd
LE KC & CC 4X4 Auto
LE CC 4X2 Auto

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lakota
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Posted: Aug 14 2008 at 4:12pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

Boomer;

Good posting!

If you can get it all together you can start a new thread and I can make it a 'sticky' for future info help.

I'll check my garbage for axle info. CUL

lakota



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dannyg
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Posted: Aug 14 2008 at 4:45pm | IP Logged Quote dannyg

thanks a bunch CA=nissan made CC= DANA NISSAN THANKS

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sailor_lou
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Posted: Aug 15 2008 at 10:08pm | IP Logged Quote sailor_lou

I picked up an oil filter wrench that looks kinda like a pair of channel locks.  They have an offset so it is easy to grab the filter through the hole.  As Boomer identified, I found plenty of sharp edges around the small cover, so next change the file is going in before my hand.  It still looks like its going to be a pain keeping the oil from running all over the top of the skid plate, so I may try poking a hole in the filter first to let it drain before I remove it.  In any case, it seems the design could have been better. 

Lou, 08 NISMO KC, 4x4, 6 SP, Majestic Blue

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Posted: Aug 16 2008 at 6:10am | IP Logged Quote Boomer

Agree on the design.  Just pack rags on the plate to catch any oil.  When done, remove and dispose of the rags, wipe the top and rear of the plate with a clean rag and off you go.  I read on a site where a guy cut a piece of PVC tubing in half lengthwise and puit it up under the filter to direct the oil into his drain pan.  While it might work, I think it may be more of a pain than just stuffing in rags.

Good luck!



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