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Pacer6
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| Posted: Jun 14 2020 at 10:58pm | IP Logged
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Yesterday was oil change day. Changed from the 5w-20 to 5w-30. My
son said it was easy, but he forgot it was me. I do a 10 minute
engine flush with each oil change. The oil is hot and so is the oil
filter. Since I am a putz, that meant trouble. Sure enough dropped
the old filter. It did pore out oil on the skid plate. Such fun
should be shared with everyone, but that isn’t all the fun.
Changed front diff oil. It shot out the drain further than I
anticipated. Mess in the driveway. Cleaned up fairly well though.
I never check the oil level until I have driven the truck for 100 mi.
and then put in as needed. I put in the published amount needed.
Tomorrow is the rear
end and transfer case. How big a mess can this be?
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Rubble
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| Posted: Jun 15 2020 at 7:21am | IP Logged
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Pacer6 wrote:
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height:
100%">
Yesterday was oil change day. Changed from the 5w-20 to
5w-30. My
son said it was easy, but he forgot it was me. I do a 10
minute
engine flush with each oil change. The oil is hot and so
is the oil
filter. Since I am a putz, that meant trouble. Sure
enough dropped
the old filter. It did pore out oil on the skid plate.
Such fun
should be shared with everyone, but that isn’t all the
fun.
Changed front diff oil. It shot out the drain further
than I
anticipated. Mess in the driveway. Cleaned up fairly
well though.
I never check the oil level until I have driven the truck
for 100 mi.
and then put in as needed. I put in the published amount
needed.
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 100%">
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 100%">Tomorrow
is the rear
end and transfer case. How big a mess can this be?
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 100%">
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Jim,
I've never heard of an Engine Flush when doing an Oil
change. Who put 5w20 in your Truck?
I alway's remove the skid plate before getting to the Oil
Filter and I alway prefill the new oil filter to the point
when the filter is turned sideway's the oil won't pour
out. Cut's down on the time it take's the engine oil pump
to fill the Filter.
Seem's risky to go 100 mile's before checking the Oil
Level after changeing. I alway's fill to about 1/8" below
full mark, crank up and idle about 2 min, shut down, fill
to about 1/4" below full mark, and then check the level
after the truck sit's over night. After mine sit's
overnight, the oil level is usually right on the Full
Mark.
Don't forget to take the Axle Vent out, clean with diesel
fuel and Blow it out with your air compressor, reinstall,
then change the differential oil.
Regards,
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Pacer6
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| Posted: Jun 15 2020 at 10:16am | IP Logged
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I have been researching engine flushing for years. Basically it is a solvent that takes out the deposits that are left even after changing oil. The only way to remove them is solvent. There are numerous research studies to support that. Hydraulic lifters are especially problematic.
I fill with the recommended amout of oil 5.8 qts. and filter. Then I drive it and then check oil. It is almost always on the nose. Right after the change, I let it run for another 5 to 10 min to check for leaks.
I do have a neurological condition that is degenerative with no treatment. Right now, I just drop things. It will get worse. That's the issue for the mess I make.
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Rubble
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| Posted: Jun 15 2020 at 8:14pm | IP Logged
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Pacer6 wrote:
I have been researching engine
flushing for years. Basically it is a solvent that takes
out the deposits that are left even after changing oil.
The only way to remove them is solvent. There are
numerous research studies to support that. Hydraulic
lifters are especially problematic.
I fill with the recommended amout of oil 5.8 qts. and
filter. Then I drive it and then check oil. It is almost
always on the nose. Right after the change, I let it run
for another 5 to 10 min to check for leaks.
I do have a neurological condition that is
degenerative with no treatment. Right now, I just drop
things. It will get worse. That's the issue for the mess
I make.
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Jim,
I don't think Nissan approve's of Lubrication System
Flush's. Never saw it in the Service or Owner's Manual.
Remember the reason that we 1st crank up the engine is to
get oil to the Top End, so it will have some lubrication
when we 1st crank it up after changeing out the Oil
Filter. Seem's to me that the Flush will remove any
lubricant's as well, so I would be leary of that.
When You Recheck the Oil Level right after the Oil
change,, Oil is still in the Top End and over night it
will drain back down in the Sump. If the Dip Stick show's
Full right after the Oil Change then it will be overfull
after sitting overNight.
A lot of us have health problem's, me included, so I
understand it makeing thing's harder to get the
maintenance and chore's done around the house. I have
degenerative orthritis with bone spur's in my hip's and
Spinal Injurie's from GoCart Flipping over and Several
Motorcycle Wreck's being thrown in the air, with the last
one not sure what happened cause I was unconscious for a
while. I still want to ride though and entertain
thought's of buying a Sportster. My subconscious take's
over and remind's me that another hard fall could put me
in a wheelchair.
Don't forget to loosen the Fill Plug on the rear axle
before draining,, just to make sure you can remove it for
the refill. If ever the Fill Plug can't be gotten out
after the Drain,, then it is possible to refill through
the Vent Hole,, but will need to refill by Fluid Capacity
in the Service Manual. The Vent hole is much smaller so
it is more difficult, but possible.
Over the year's I've had plenty of Spill's to deal with.
Never much fun,, but the Sunday Paper and lot's of Paper
Towel's get it cleaned up, with a Mental Note not to do
that again. Oil and Diesel are one thing,, but Paint is
another and a lot harder to clean up. 
Regards,
PostScript: Please view this Video on Castrol Magnatec
Full Snythetic Engine Oil:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVD05oqnjrs
After thinking about the Engine Flush that you're doing;
Anything strong enough to remove Oil Sludge, etc., would
be strong enough to remove any and all OIL FILM on Metal
Part's; That would be Paramount to Performing a DRY
ENGINE STARTUP, Which is what we ALL Want to Avoid.
That's why we 1st Start Up a Cold Engine Prior to doing an
Oil Change, to put oil in the Top End and Oil in the
Bearing Assembly's. Unless you want to Put a Good Engine
into an Early Grave, I would seriously reconsider doing an
Engine Flush. Consult Professional Engine Rebuilder's
about this as well to confirm what I'm saying.
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Pacer6
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| Posted: Jun 19 2020 at 12:25pm | IP Logged
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Fluids all changed. Glad I did. Some were very dirty. The tranny is the only thing I have not touched. That would be next. It will be hard to notice changes in performance, etc. because of the "feel good" effect of the changes.
As the solvent is added it does disolve solids that have accumutated in the oil system. But as the temp rises it oxidizes and mixes with the oil. Mineral spirit based solvent like Seafoam, destroy the oil's natural tendency to cling to metal. It too oxidizes, but the ability of the oil to cling is permanantly lost. Not all solvents are mineral spirit based. I have studied the chemistry of this a bunch. You only leave it in the engine from 10-15 min, no longer. Drain the oil and refill.
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Rubble
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| Posted: Jun 20 2020 at 1:04am | IP Logged
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Pacer6 wrote:
Fluids all changed. Glad I did.
Some were very dirty. The tranny is the only thing I have
not touched. That would be next. It will be hard to
notice changes in performance, etc. because of the "feel
good" effect of the changes. As the
solvent is added it does disolve solids that have
accumutated in the oil system. But as the temp rises it
oxidizes and mixes with the oil. Mineral spirit based
solvent like Seafoam, destroy the oil's natural tendency
to cling to metal. It too oxidizes, but the ability of
the oil to cling is permanantly lost. Not all solvents
are mineral spirit based. I have studied the chemistry of
this a bunch. You only leave it in the engine from 10-15
min, no longer. Drain the oil and refill. |
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Jim,
In the old day's before Synthetic's, we did have Sludge,
even when the oil was changed according to the Recommended
Maintenance Schedule. The Really Sludged Clogged up
engine's were the one's that the Owner's never changed the
Oil.
Before I got my 1st Nissan Truck back in 1993, I talked
with a lot of Nissan Truck Owner's to see how the Truck's
were holding up. I talked with a Man in the Waffle House
one day about his Nissan Truck sitting in the Parking
Lot. He told me that he had several in his business and
the One in the Parking Lot had 135K Mile's and he had
never changed the oil on the Truck. That's the type of
Vehicle that Might benefit from an Oil Flush, but on the
other hand it might dislodge a big amount and Clog up the
Lubrication System.
With Semi and Full Synthetic's if the Oil is changed on
time per the Recommended Maintenance Schedule I don't
think that an Engine Oil Flush is going to help much
except to Risk not having enough Lubrication after the old
Oil is drained out, The New Oil and Filter have been
installed and then on the Restart, is where I think that
the Risk occur's. Also some of the Flush Mixture might
hang around in some of the Bearing's long enough to cause
premature wear.
If you use a Full Synthetic like Castrol Full Synthetic
Magnatec, and Change the Oil per the Recommended
Maintenance Schedule, it is my opinion that there
shouldn't be much if any Sludge to remove. That's the job
of A Synthetic Oil to keep the Engine Clean.
I just changed the Oil on my '13 and so far, I haven't had
any problem's with the Magnatec, and the Top End may be a
little bit quieter. My Engine never has been noisy like
I've heard other's complain about though.
My only concern really, is the Engine Oil Flush may
shorten the Life of your Engine. Did you read about the
Fellow that drove his 4 cyl Nissan Frontier for a Million
Mile's. All he did as far as I know,, was just the
Recommended Maintenance Schedule and he got a Million
Mile's out of his original Engine and Transmission. He
did use a Nissan Oil Filter, cause I called the Nissan
Service Department that he used myself, to check on if he
used a Geniune Nissan Oil Filter. They told me that he
bought the Nissan filter's by the Case.
Remember the 4 Liter Nissan Engine's that are in our
Frontier's are a lot more complex than Engine's of
Yesteryear. According to SMJ they are Extremely hard to
Overhaul and it's probly better to get a used Running
Engine rather than try to overhaul one, cause it's just
too expensive to pay somebody to do the work.
Good Luck,
Regards,
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Pacer6
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| Posted: Jun 21 2020 at 1:58pm | IP Logged
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The high mileage vehicles are more problematic. As the wear builds deposits build up in wear areas making the engine perform nominally. You never know there might be excess wear. That usually occurs in the rings, valve lifters, and bearings. Solvents can wash these deposits out and make all kinds of problems for you. The ideal is begin flushing from the start.
The research shows no problems with residual solvents. Pure mineral spirit based products are much different. They are a problem.
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Rubble
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| Posted: Jun 22 2020 at 4:32am | IP Logged
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Pacer6 wrote:
The high mileage vehicles are more
problematic. As the wear builds deposits build up in wear
areas making the engine perform nominally. You never know
there might be excess wear. That usually occurs in the
rings, valve lifters, and bearings. Solvents can wash
these deposits out and make all kinds of problems for
you. The ideal is begin flushing from the start.
The research shows no problems with
residual solvents. Pure mineral spirit based products are
much different. They are a problem.
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Jim,
I hear you on the Research.
Nissan specifically say's in the Owner's Manual, NOT to
use OIL ADDITIVE's. If Nissan Approve's of Added
Chemical's to do an Engine Oil Flush, that would be
something I would seriously consider doing, but Nissan
Doesn't Approve and Specifically SAY'S "DON'T DO IT".
Today's Synthetic Oil's Lubricate as well as Clean the
Engine. That's why in Older Truck's and Car's that have
developed Sludge over the year's by useing Non Synthetic
Oil's. When they Switch to a Full Synthetic Engine Oil,
the Synthetic Oil Dissolve's the Sludge and the Engine can
Start to have Engine Oil Leak's.
IMO The Best that an Owner can do is Adhere to the Nissan
Recommended Maintenance Schedule. Whether Synthetic,
SemiSynthetic, or Non Synthetic, Change the Oil Per the
Recommended Mileage &/OR Time Limit.
Many people that use Synthetic's don't change the oil PER
THE NISSAN MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Some go Extreme Extra
Mileage, Some go Extra Mileage and change the OIl Filter
Sooner, Some go by a Yearly Oil Change Schedule, which
none of the Aformentioned is what Nissan Recommend's.
My Advice is don't try and Reinvent the Wheel and
OverThink the Maintenance ~ Just Sticking to the Nissan
Recommended Maintenance Schedule is the Best that an Owner
can do IMO.
Sticking to the Nissan Maintenance Schedule is not easy to
do either. There is the Time Limit Restraint and Several
other thing's to do other than just Oil change's.
One thing that the Maintenance Schedule doesn't address is
the Air Vent Valve on the Axle Houseing. My Tractor's
Owner's Manual doesn't address the Air Vent on the Axle's,
and Transmission Houseing's either. I discovered on my
Tractor that the Air Vent's can get Clogged by Dirt, Dust,
& Rust. When the Air Vent's get Clogged then the Heated
Air in the Houseing's don't have a good way to escape and
cause Expansion Stress on the Seal's.
It's best to take the Axle Air Vent's out at every Engine
Oil Change, Clean them with Diesel Fuel and Blow them out
with YOUR HARBOR FREIGHT AIR COMPRESSOR. Other Wise the
Risk goe's up that Axle Seal's will start to leak and then
a Repair is needed.
My Advice is USE a Geniune Nissan Oil Filter, A Good
Synthetic Engine OIL,( I like the Castrol Full Synthetic
Magnatec), Change the other Fluid's Includeing the ATF by
the Mileage or Time Limit's. On the ATF if done per the
Mileage and/or Time, then only a Drain and Fill is
necessary IMO.
Don't OverThink and get caught up in Hype and Socalled
Research in the Engine Flush's. Some have gotten caught
up with the Hype's and do Transmission Flush's which are
only needed in Special Case's like Coolant Contamination.
Some have done Transmission Flush's and then had
Transmission Failure's Shortly Afterwards.
Don't OVERThink the Maintenance, Just Adhere Strickly to
the Nissan Maintenance Schedule in the Owner's,
Maintenance, & Nissan Service Manual's, Is My Advice.
Doing the Nissan Maintenance Schedule doesn't gaurantee
that there won't be Repair Problem's Either, but it's the
BEST WAY THAT I KNOW OF TO PREVENT REPAIR'S AND DO YOUR
PART IN HELPING YOUR NISSAN LAST AS LONG AS POSSIBLE.
Nothing is Perfect and Thing's Happen Outside Our Control
that only a Repair can Solve, but Sticking to The
Maintenance Schedule can Really Help to Prevent a Repair.
Regards,
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Pacer6
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| Posted: Jun 22 2020 at 6:42pm | IP Logged
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I never add anything to the oil but the flush.
Talk about extended oil change periods. Amsoil did a 1,000,000 mile challenge with over the road truchs.
They installed by pass filters in all and ran Amsoil. Every 6 months the filter was changed and one quart of oil added to the crankcase to make up for the oil removed by the filter. They started tearing down the some engines at 250,000 mi, 500,000 mi, 750,000 mi and some all the way to 1,000,000 mi. They measured at most 5% wear in any of the engines.
As for maintainence, I just want to know what goes in and not take anyones word for it.
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Rubble
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| Posted: Jun 23 2020 at 8:25am | IP Logged
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Pacer6 wrote:
I never add anything to the oil but
the flush. Talk about extended oil
change periods. Amsoil did a 1,000,000 mile challenge
with over the road truchs. They
installed by pass filters in all and ran Amsoil. Every 6
months the filter was changed and one quart of oil added
to the crankcase to make up for the oil removed by the
filter. They started tearing down the some engines at
250,000 mi, 500,000 mi, 750,000 mi and some all the way to
1,000,000 mi. They measured at most 5% wear in any of the
engines. As for maintainence, I just
want to know what goes in and not take anyones word for
it. |
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Jim,
Nissan say's don't add oil additive's ie it's a Blanket
Statement. They don't say at the Beginning or End, they
just say DON'T DO IT.
If you can get Nissan to make an Exception for useing
AMSOIL ENGINE FLUSH, then you'll have a Seller, but and
that a big BUT, if Nissan approved of adding chemical's to
do an Engine Oil Flush, Nissan would have their Own Engine
Oil Flush Product's, But they don't and that's it.
I'm a Believer in Research as well but by the Number's and
by that I mean Engine Mileage Indurance #'s. Not useing
Commercial Diesel Truck Engine's that are allready Proven
to go a Million Mile's with just Recommended Factory Oil
change Interval's. I drove Big Rig's for a # of Year's so
that part I know 1st hand. By just talking at the Coffee
Table and Seeing the Odometer Myself.
If/When you get to 750K on your VQ40DE V6 FRONTIER ENGINE
WITH NO MAJOR ENGINE REPAIR'S, then I'll give the Oil
Change Flush Thing some Serious Consideration, and if and
that's a Huge IF, You Can Present Verifiable Engine
Mileage Indurance #'s to Nissan they Might be encouraged
to Endorse Your Amsoil Engine Flush or They Might buy in
Bulk and Relabel Genuine Nissan Engine Oil Flush Proven to
Increase the Life of Your Nissan Engine.
Till then Nissan say's DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL
ADDITIVE'S.
Regards,
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Topic: First oil change for Fronty
