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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 7:13am | IP Logged
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I'm new here but couldn't find a post on this topic. I
just did the work but didn't take many photos. Should I
do a lessons learned on it?
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'07 Frontier KC LE 4X4 Auto 4.0L 1N6AD06W87C44
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lakota
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 1:06pm | IP Logged
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..
Welcome to the group.
Well I for one would read it!
Have a good one.. Don S..
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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 3:41pm | IP Logged
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Ok.. where does it go?
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lakota
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 7:41pm | IP Logged
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..
You can do it right here.
I'll make a sticky out of it later in the upper part of this forum.
Good Luck.. Don S..
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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 8:59pm | IP Logged
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I have about 108K on the truck now. Have already
replaced both front hubs which were bad and still had
some grinding noise and wheer and was fairly sure it
was rear wheel bearings.
I removed wheels and used a dial indicator and pry bar
but couldn't find any endplay for confirmation. Also
couldn't feel any grabing when spinning the axle while
installed for confirmation and differential bearings
made too much noise for me to tell as well.
I have a service manual and reviewed procedure which
I'll use as I do this in multiple posts.
I'll also use the part numbers from the parts diagram
here,
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/Page_Product/PartDetai
l.aspx?Vin=1N6AD06W87C440736&Filter=
()&SubCategoryUrl=rear-axle&Diagram=&PartNumbers=
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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 9:16pm | IP Logged
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Needed parts 1 for each side...
Name........................Part Number
Seal-O Ring.................43085-42G00
Spacer-Rear Axle............43070-EB00A
Ring Snap Bearing...........40214-EB00A
Seal-Oil,Rear Axle..........43252-0W000
Sensor Rotor-Antiskid Rear..47950-EA010
Bolt, Anti-Skid Sensor..... 08120-8162E
Bearing-Inner, Rear Axle....43210-EA200
and in my case the backing plate was rusted out
Plate Assy-Backing Plate LH..44030-EA070
and/or
Plate Assy-Backing Plate RH..44020-EA070
Some after market parts are available such as the hub.
I used MOOG hubs that I purchased online.
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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 06 2017 at 9:26pm | IP Logged
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I'll do this by the steps in the service manual now
and break every now and again. I didn't use exact
order so I'll do in my order.
1. Remove the rear brake caliper assembly without
disconnecting the brake hose and reposition out of the
way.
I've done a couple of pad replacements so this
wasn't a problem.
2. Remove the ABS wheel sensor from the axle case
and reposition out of the way.
I had one bolt break off on each side. So you need to
heat these prior to attempting removal. I ended up not
drilling and tapping these yet but plan on doing it
later so will show my temporary work around in
assembly.
3. Remove the parking brake assembly from the
back plate and torque member.
It's much easier if you have some drum brake spring
pliers about. Be sure to keep the adjuster bolts
separated by side to make reassembly easier.
4. Remove the axle bearing nuts securing the axle
shaft assembly to the axle case.
5. Draw the axle shaft assembly out of the axle
case using Tools as shown.
They show a slide hammer puller. There was no need to
use one.
At this point I could tell the bearings were bad. They
did not spin freely and smoothly as expected.
6. Remove the O-ring.
Mine had oxidation which I scraped and used a green
scrubby to remove.
7. Remove the axle oil seal using Tools as shown
and discard.
They show a slide hammer with a screw
expanded puller. I used a rolling wedge bar.
8. Remove the ABS sensor rotor using Tool.
Discard the ABS sensor rotor.
I used an air chisel and cracked it at which time it
came right off. I could not find a puller that would
work in the small space that was available to grip it.
You do not need to drill or grind it. Be very careful
to not mark the shaft.
9. Remove the snap ring and shim washer. Discard
the snap ring and shim washer.
I called the local dealer and they reuse the shim
washer and did not have new ones in stock. They were
also special order and non-returnable, at least at my
local dealer. The snap ring is inexpensive.
10. Remove the bearing ring retainer from the
axle shaft using Tool as shown. Discard the bearing
ring retainer.
Again the one that was installed didn't have a way to
pull it. So I chiseled it with the air chisel a bit so
that it would have less grip on the shaft.
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Duane_NEPA
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This is where it got interesting. I have a
industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60603.html">20
Ton Press so figured I was set, mine is the
older orange model so maybe this one is taller than
the older one. The removed axle wouldn't fit in the
press unless I modified the press by drilling holes in
the press apron. I'll get a picture of the
modification tomorrow.
11. Remove the wheel studs using a suitable hammer or
press. Needed to remove the wheel studs so that there
was room in the press to remove the other parts. Used
the press to do this.
12. Remove the back plate and torque member with the
axle bearing attached from the axle shaft using a
suitable press.
I used a bearing splitter under it and part of a ball
joint pressing tool on top of the axle. This also
messed up the backing plate a bit but since I was
replacing I didn't care. This took a lot of force but
the 20 tons was enough. Since the fit in the press was
so close this took a bunch of moves and was a huge
pain.
13. Remove the axle bearing studs to release the axle
bearing from the back plate and torque member using a
suitable hammer or press.
14. Remove the grease catcher from the axle shaft.
15. Press off the outer roller bearing race. This also
took a bunch of moves and was a pain using a large
bearing splitter.
Now we will start assembly. I'll do it tomorrow.
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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 07 2017 at 11:17am | IP Logged
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Press Modifications and the stuff you'll need for the
press.
 ">
The stock press isn't tall enough for the axle to fit
between the press apron and the ram. So drilling two
new holes in the press apron that allow the apron to
sit on the legs gives you enough room. I used a 7/8"
hole saw in a drill press to make new holes. I tried
just using the legs but they were bent because of the
needed forces so just drill the holes and be done with
it.
The 2" X 4" Pipe Nipple is for reassembly when you
press the new bearings onto the shaft.
You'll also need some sockets or 1/2" pipe nipples to
press the studs into the bearing hub.
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Duane_NEPA
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| Posted: May 07 2017 at 11:35am | IP Logged
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Service Data and Specifications
Axle Specifications EDS0033H
Unit: mm (in)
Axial end play 0 - 0.07 (0 - 0.003)
Snap ring to shim washer clearance 0.2 (0.008) or less
Snap ring outer diameter installed 47.5 (1.87) maximum
You'll need some feeler gauges along with a dial
indicator and magnetic mount to make these
measurements later
I measured the snap ring to shim washer clearance of
less than 0.008".
I mounted the dial indicator to the shaft so that I
could measure end play. Used a pry bar to develop
force to move the axle.
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Nissan Frontier Forums : Problems / Technical
Topic: C200K Axle Bearing Replacement
