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Frontier Modifications (Performance & Looks)
 Nissan Frontier Forums : Frontier Modifications (Performance & Looks)
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S.A.R.Tech
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Posted: Dec 29 2007 at 1:11pm | IP Logged Quote S.A.R.Tech

I finally got the secret to the sucess of the Diamondkote product I had
applied when I bought my truck, (cost a pretty penny that's for sure). It has
a lifetime warranty so long as I have it inspected every year. Looking back I
am not sure what they're going to waranty on a finishing product, but it sold
me when I bout the truck, so what's done is done. Anyhoo, turns out it is
just a really high quality wax that had teflon in it. I have to admit that the
like-new performance lasted almost an entire year here in Canada. I can see
now where it is not quite so effective anymore, but the reest of the bottle
should recover the entire truck. So am I pleased? YOU BET!!

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ebritt
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Posted: Dec 30 2007 at 8:12am | IP Logged Quote ebritt

nismoboy05 wrote:
whats the best way to get rid of surface scratches?  kinda slid in mud and side swiped a tree....  no dents though. 

While the other guys were right, if the scratches are past the clear coat or even down to bare metal you will have to touch them up with some paint. Those paint kits you get at the local auto store will do just fine, just make sure you match paint codes. Shouldnt cost more than 5 or 6 bucks for the touch up paint.

Add the touch up paint to the scratches in layers, and let it dry thouroughly, do not rush it. build up until slightly higher than factory paint.

Start with 600 to 800 grit sand paper and water sand gently until smooth. Sand a small area surrounding the scratch to blend it in. Finish with 100 to 1200 grit.

Use a rubbing or buffing compound and smooth out the sanding marks. This can be done by hand but a buffer works much better. Dont use a lot of pressure or run the buffer super fast as this will "burn" the paint.

Finish it off with some fine polishing compound and then wax.

Good as new

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taterb0b
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Posted: Jan 07 2012 at 11:16am | IP Logged Quote taterb0b

Does anyone have a good source to refer to about replacing
a headliner? I've looked all over but cannont find one. And I
really dont wanna pay someone for something this simple.
Thanks guys!!





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kcidmil
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Posted: Jan 07 2012 at 3:00pm | IP Logged Quote kcidmil

Headliners are relatively easy, just have to watch out on
tearing it when you stretch it.

You'll need to pick up some spray adhesive from a auto
parts or craft store. Remove the trim from inside your
cab and remove your headliner. If it's just sagging,
carefully pull the cloth away starting at the area
closest to the loose material. Try no to pull beyond the
loosened material.

When you finally have access spray the adhesive lightly
over the carboard. Using something smooth (i found deep
well sockets or bondo spreaders work great) pushing the
loose material back down, while lightly pulling the cloth
towards the edge.

I wish i had taken pictures the last time i did this.

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taterb0b
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Posted: Jan 07 2012 at 4:11pm | IP Logged Quote taterb0b

My problem is figuring out how to remove the trim. The
piece that runs along door is the tricky one. Any tips?
Thanks!!

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kcidmil
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Posted: Jan 07 2012 at 9:08pm | IP Logged Quote kcidmil

Are you talking about the kick plate running along the
floor, or the A pillar trim running up and over your head?

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taterb0b
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Posted: Jan 07 2012 at 9:31pm | IP Logged Quote taterb0b

The pillar trim. Sorry I should have specified.

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kcidmil
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Posted: Jan 07 2012 at 10:36pm | IP Logged Quote kcidmil

Should be 2 bolts for the o-&Y^* handle if there is one
there. Use a little screwdriver to pop the cover for the
bolts. Then it should be a matter of pulling the trim
off. this is where it gets interesting, some clips clip
forwards pointing toward the front of the car. Others
will point outwards in the direction of the door. Some
vehicles even are at an angle. Pulling the wrong
direction will result in broken tabs.

Given what I can remember of the old frontiers, I think
you can pull the trim towards the opposite side. Start
towards the top and work your way down towards the dash.

Go slowly and don't go yanking on the trim. It won't
easily pop off but should come off with some firm steady
pulling. And always try pulling as close as you can to
the tabs.

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PaulJames
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Posted: Jan 08 2012 at 10:12am | IP Logged Quote PaulJames

I have had good luck with wax from Griot's garage and
another source is Detail King. As far as Teflon goes,
Dupont Chemicals has said, "the addition of Teflon
flouropolymer resin does nothing to enhance the
properties of car wax"....but they still do not have any
data to confirm any claims of the benefit of using Teflon
in car waxes so I suppose the jury is out on that. With
sanding scratches I've worked my way up to 2000 grit,
without going through the clear coat which is only 2-3mil
thick. I've also used a reduced clear coat and applied it
with a fine brush wet sanded and then polished it out as
those scratches could not be hidden with glazes or wax.
I've also used a buffer to polish and to apply wax. The
pros use a direct drive buffer for finishing and it works
fast and take some practice. However, I prefer to use an
orbital buffer as it doesn't produce the heat on the
paint surface which is your big enemy and I don't do this
every day as they do for a living. The goal of all of
this is to preserve the original paint surface, the main
problems I see are UV rays of the sun, acid rain, bird
droppings and scratches...road rash. So I'll stick with
natural carnauba wax, which has been shown to be a tricky
complicated natural compound which science has yet to
duplicate no matter what Madison Avenue claims.

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Wolfstruck
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Posted: Feb 29 2012 at 10:59am | IP Logged Quote Wolfstruck

When i was a mechanic, ad found myself touching a faded bumper or
fender with greasy hands i would clean it up with a rag and a little
diesel, it completely cleans it up and keeps it looking new for a while,
which is hard to do in the CO dry climate. Brasso does a good job of
removing brake dust stains from alloys.

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