Posted: Jun 15 2007 at 1:17am | IP Logged

Comparative testing was performed on AMSOIL synthetic motor oil versus Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Quaker State Advanced Full Synthetic, full-synthetic Pennzoil Platinum, Trop Artic and Motorcraft synthetic blends, and petroleum-based Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme, Havoline, Formula Shell and Pennzoil.  The impressive test results show AMSOIL synthetic motor oil outperformed the competitors in nearly every test. Go to www.genuine-synthetics.com and take a look for yourself.

Posted: Aug 13 2007 at 4:07pm | IP Logged

Hi.  New to the forum as I just bought a new 2007 Frontier and take delivery this Thursday.

I am an organic chemist by training.  Mobil 1 is a true synthetic, based on a polyalpha olefin and a polyester blend with a third component presnt.  it will be honey colored when new (I've used it for years)  and will darken with time as it picks up carbon and other combustion products.

What makes a synthetic so good?  There are no double bonds present that cause degradation and all of the molecules are of similar molecular weights and architecture.  They are tailored to flow well and to give very low friction.  Because of this, the oils will go longer than regular oil but you still need to change it to get rid of combustion byproducts and grit that can get through the filter   However, new Porsches use it and only recommend a change once a year.

There is a version of Mobil 1 just out that is extended service intended for just this type of use.

Posted: Aug 19 2007 at 12:13am | IP Logged

A good synthetic oil does not need to be changed at 3-4K miles.  If you are doing so then you are wasting money and creating unnecessary waste.  The actual drain interval that you should use depends on the composition of the synthetic  oil.  Most synthetic oils in the US are labeled as "Full Synthetic".  In the US, "Full Synthetic" is a legal term that refers to group 3 oils (highly refined petroleum oils from crude).  Although these are actually petroleum oils that come from the ground, US law allows them to be labeled as synthetic becuase they are more purified than typical conventional oils (group 2 oils).  The best of the "Full Synthetic" oils usually have a mixture of group 3 petroleum bases and synthesized PAO (poly-alpha-olefins).  These oils are far superior than conventional oils but still have their limitations.  The problem is the group 3 petroleum content of these "full synthetics" still has impurities carried over from the crude.  Some of these impurities are impossible to remove and some are just too expensive to remove.  These impurities are susceptible to thermal and oxidative breakdown and are a weak link in the lubricant.  Once breakdown begins the oil will thicken, leading to loss in fuel efficiency and the development of sludge and varnish deposits.  AMSOIL is one comany that uses only PAO base stocks in their lubricants and they are labeled as "100% Synthetic" instead of "Full Synthetic".  Check your labels the next time you buy motor oil.  PAO (group 4 oils) are synthesized compounds free of the contaminants found in refined petroleum oils.  Here is a great site explaining the differences between conventional and synthetic oils:  http://www.genuine-synthetics.com/benefitsandfeatures.html

And then there's additives, don't even get me started there.  The bottom line:  Today's synthetic oils will safely last much longer than the 3-4K mile drain intervals that we have all been brainwashed into using.  As long as you have the filter present to take out dirt and metal particles in your oil, the oil itself will keep protecting your engine.  If the synthetic oil manufacturer claims their oil is good for a certain duration, then it will be safe for that duration under stated driving conditions.  Believe me, they wouldn't list it if it weren't accurate becuase they would be opened up to profit-killing lawsuits.  Leave the oil in, change the filter and top off to the proper fill level.  You will save money, reduce oil waste and be giving your truck the best care possible.

I am a Chemist with over 11 years experience and have studied lubricants for a long time.  I use synthetic oil exclusively in my vehicles, lawn equipment, air compressor, etc. and monitor oil quality and stability with routine oil analysis.

Posted: Aug 19 2007 at 1:23am | IP Logged

as far as i've read, mobil1 is is a Group IV basestock oil and the only major (bigger companies) to be a Group IV basestock

Posted: Aug 19 2007 at 6:37am | IP Logged

The above info is essentially correct.  For full syns, there are only two main types---poly alph olefins that are molecular weight controlled branched hydrocarbons and polyesters.  The PAOs branching is done in a regular fashion which allows for control of friction.  With both types, "crud" or polymerized material will not form easily and friction is reduced.  With some synthetics, there is a lot of a zinc additive used and these may hurt the catalytic converter over time.  I know that Mobil 1 does not depend on this type of chemical which is why it is used by major car manufacturers.  I cannot speak for other synthetics.  Make sure that the oil you use meets the specs put forth by the manufacturer of your vehicle.  read the label on the oil container as to what specs it meets and then check your owners manual.   If the synthetic meets specs, it is safe to use and will give you the benefits of the synthetic.  If you are going to use a "Hydrotreated" natural oil sold as a synthetic (ie Castrrol Syntec), just use regular Pennzoil.  Same basic stuff at a lower cost.  

While you don't lose the good lubricity of synthetics over time, you do pick up dirt from combustion and contaminants that make it through your air filtration medium.  For this reason, it pays to do a filter change if you intend to leave the oil in for a long period.  Personally, I change out my Mobil 1 and filter every 5000-6000 miles and always install a new filter such as a Wix or NAPA Gold (same filter) or a Mobil 1 filter.

Posted: Aug 19 2007 at 12:35pm | IP Logged

wow, keep it coming guys.  This is great!  what's this I've been hearing about with ester based oild and moly based oils and such?  I knwo there are other oil bases out there.  What are their specialities and strong points and weak points?  Has annyone pitted the top "100% synthetics" against eachother?  Know where I can find this info?  PLayers like Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple?  Really curios about their chemical makeups.  I'm just drinkng this in.  I wouldn't be asking except that the info I have been able to glean is very superficial and plain.  I am looking for the reall goods on these ones.  No doubt tthaqt synthetics have major advantages over petroleum based, and I now understand how to tap into those performance increases and why they are so much better.  Now how about digging into the "how they work".  How do I tell the differences?  I didn't even know that little tidbit about the Castrol Syntec.

PAO vs. Ester vs. Moly vs. Parafin etc.