Posted: Jul 12 2005 at 10:55am | IP Logged

You have any pictures of your extended section? 

You already said you don't want to go with my style of setup... it is just a little overboard for normal people.  But I already have a lot of hearing loss so there's no difference for me

Now here's a couple more questions that help me determine style of box.  You already said you wanted to enhance.

What type of music do you listen to most often?

Posted: Jul 12 2005 at 11:12am | IP Logged

Ok... here's an idea that just might work.  Lets see how you would like this.  Take these 3 measurements

-In between the rear seats (fold them down)
-From the rear wall to your center console
-from the top of the hump... to about elbow height of someone seating in the jump seats

you'll have to build a small arch bracket for a box to sit onto.  Now your best bet would be a sealed box. (best for the Heavy Metal)  This design will give any passengers in the back a arm rest.  and won't cause you sacrifce anything but a extended center console.

Now you could build the box so the sub firing up... but I think if you build a box just short of the center console (room for sub excursion) and mount the amp on top (or hidden if you like)  this will give you plenty of box space for the sub. 

I only can see 1 potential problem... and that's the fact that with the seats folded down... it'll narrow the space to less than 12" across.  You'll want a couple of inches of clearance on the side of the hole for the sub.

What subwoofer do you have.  I need the make and model if you still know it.  That way I can find out what the sub calls for on a box.  And can make measurement adjustments as needed.

Posted: Jul 12 2005 at 11:26am | IP Logged

I'm not worried about impedence at this moment.  If you been running this setup for awhile... it means it works

Ok... then we'll do a slight switching effect. 

You still want to access the tools and seat belts.  But you'll have to sacrifice those cupholders... (you can always buy some cheap things out of wal-mart, and install them on the side of the box)  Just build the box from the back of the console to the rear.  You could do a slight incline for the sub to mount on.  Leaving a wedge area around the sub to access everything.

Did the sub look like this one? http://www.cardomain.com/item/ROCP110S42PAK

Posted: Jul 12 2005 at 11:44am | IP Logged

Or since you will hardly have anyone sitting back there.  You could have the box stop short.  And face the subwoofer up. 

But the wedge idea would keep the sub kind of hidden.  Also, it will give a little more boom, seeing how you are going to get a hatchback effect out of the sub. 

As for the incline, it would have to face up toward the rear window.  Doing it facing down would require one weird box... and leave a hump in the back area. 

Centerconsole       Tool storage
             l _____    l
             [_____\   v

Posted: Jul 12 2005 at 12:12pm | IP Logged

Ok... based upon the PS1 RF sub.  And having a sealed enclosure of .65 cu ft. 

Using 3/4 MDF (can be found at Lowe's... etc)  And using the following EXTERIOR deminsions.  You will be slightly over that.  I have always found that RF subs peform better in boxes bigger than their recommended enclosure.  
   
            10"
        _____  
 12" [_____\       width 12"
             12"

Remember those are OUTSIDE deminsions.  So it'll be 12" from top to bottom on the out side.  Interior of the box will be 10.5"  from top to bottom. 

To be on the safe side... I would go 11" on the top... but you can experiment before you completly build it.  Build your mounting face first.  Load you sub into the ring.  Measure 12" down one piece of the MDF.  Then tilt the mounting face back till the top end is at 10".  If the sub's magnet hits the wood before 10".  Change the top piece to 11".